Segovia

Departing for Segovia, Kristina and I learned a valuable lesson about the importance of punctuality: people do stupid things when in a hurry.  Caught up in a conversation with Enrique, I left my house later than intended.  As the elevator reached the ground floor, I realized I hadn't put on deoderant (stupid hurry #1).  Fortunately, I took the extra time to go upstairs because I found that I also forgot to shut off my flat iron (stupid hurry #2)!  As the subway door closed before my face, I received a text from Nick confessing tardiness as well.  With Kristina's train ticket in my possession I felt pressured to make the train; calling her, however, I learned that she had left later than me!  A switch on the subway and a flustered dash later, I arrived the platform to find Nick, Kestrel, Shruti, and Darya.  The train would leave in 3 minutes, Kristina had not arrived, and the conductor would not allow me to leave Kristina's ticket at the window for her.  Anticipating momentary departure, I ran to a train door where I would wait and watch for Kris.  As I ran to get in any door, I heard the same man, who wouldn't let me leave the ticket, yelling for me.  Kris had arrived!  She put her bag through security while I gave over her ticket.  I grabbed her hand and bolted for an open door.  Kristina exclaimed, "Sally, look at my face."  Admittedly, thinking she worried over her makeup or sweatiness, I responded, "Not now: just run!"  We stepped onto the train, and I felt shocked at our unlikely triumph.  When I looked at Kristina, I saw a massive lump on her eye: "Sally, I ran into a glass wall," (MAJOR stupid hurry).  I couldn't help but laugh (A LOT), but trying to retain my good friend qualities, I sought ice for Kris.  Of course, I accidently asked the man for "helado" first (ice cream) instead of "hielo" (ice).  Surely, ice cream would have comforted her equally.  From the train station, we rode a public bus to the 2000 year old Roman aqueducts.  Jabarri, Kristina, and I separated from the rest of the group and ventured into Segovia.  We visited a monastery where we tagged along a tour for just one euro each.  We stopped by a couple closed churches on our way to the cathedral.  Next we enjoy platos combinados with Darya while Nick, Kestrel, and Shruti ate at a restaurant more posh than ours.  Nick ordered the suckling pig - a Segovian specialty - and kindly shared a taste with Jabarri and I.  After lunch, I visited the Alcazar Castle (inspiration for Disney's castle in Sleeping Beauty).  Returning to the castle conjured strong, vivid memories of travelling to Segovia with Jessica and friends in 2003.  I even knew what to expect around each corner!  I had a special moment remembering my trip with Jessi.  We followed our tour of the castle with a photo shoot in the flowered landscape, bought tickets at the bus station, indulged in warm waffles with ice cream and chocolate sauce at a cafe near the aqueduct, and left for Madrid at 9:00 at night.  Feeling ambitious, Kris and I made plans to club with Jabarri, but we both bailed and went to sleep instead!!

Jornada

Thursday and Friday (Sept. 25-26th) of this week, I attended the first of three "Jornadas," obligatory meetings hosted by La Comunidad de Madrid for conversation auxiliaries.  I'm going to keep this entry simple by telling you these were two of the most boring days of my life.  The highlight however?  LUNCH!  They provided a two course lunch with dessert and wine for us both days at a nearby restaurant (sad to say, I didn't have my camera in tote).  Returning to the Jornada stuffed and sleepy, however, felt like cruel and unusual punishment.  Now, I'm not familiar with the Spanish constitution, but I know that's just simply un-American.  

More significantly, I met a former Rollins student, Noah John.  Heading to lunch the first day, Graeham pointed out a Rollins jacket, and when Noah turned around, I immediately recognized his face though we didn' t know one another.  Noah worked as an auxiliar conversacion in Andalucia, Spain last year, and now has come to Madrid for his second year!

Es todo!  Perdoname, no fotos hoy.  

The Fire Twirler

Yeah...I live here.

HOY!!

Que bueno!  I caught my blog up to date!  So let me tell you about...TODAY: 23 de septiembre and life in Madrid in general.

First of all, it rained again late Sunday night and then yesterday though the Madrilenos keep describing it as "muy raro" (very rare).  Who knows?  It's probably about time I buy una paragua (an umbrella).  At school yesterday, I sorted a bookshelf in Chelo's room, helped Fatima's students with a colors worksheet, watched the infantiles during recreo, led a conversation group in Charo's class, and played Simon Says and sang "Head, Shoulders, Knees, and Toes" with year 1.  Worried that I would continue to feel bored and unfulfilled, I spoke to Paqui, our bilingual program coordinator, and requested a change to my schedule.  Since I am the only conversation auxiliary present at the time, the school allowed the change; however, I had to make a direct change with another auxiliar.  Paqui and I could not pick and choose my classes; therefore, I had to sacrifice my two hours with Charo's class (my favorite) in order to work primarily with year 3 instead of year 1.  Charo seemed disappointed, and I am as well, but the change will improve my time at the school tremendously.  I now will work mostly with Juani, who very much wants to take advantage of my eagerness to work!  She even has students with special needs in her class - right up my ally!  Already I felt more energized and positive at work today just knowing the change in store.  Also, Charo and Paloma have asked me to teach private English lessons to their children after school.  I'll start October 1st.

About Plaza de Chueca:  Always bustling, the plaza allures diners, botellones, dogs, and gay men and women at all hours of the day and night.  I love the constant buzz of chatter and the sporadic musicians playing for moneda.  A fire twirler frequents the plaza 3-4 times a week (see video).  People break glass more than once a day.  Opa!!

About my commute:  I spend an hour commuting each way.  The metro station sits at the footstep of my building!  I take it one stop, switch lines, and take it another 5 stops to arrive at the RENFE station.  I board my commuter train at about 8:05 and arrive Getafe in about 20-25 minutes.  Then I take the metro circular line 2 stops and walk about 5 minutes to my school.  In the morning, I eat my breakfast on the train and sometimes read 20minutos, a free newspaper.  In the afternoon, I sometimes stop at Alcampo before heading home.  I often fall asleep on the train, but I haven't missed my stop YET!

About recreo:  Teachers take a 40 minute break daily in addition to lunch.  During the break, teachers can leave school (we went to a nearby cafe last week), or we have the option of eating "snacks" in the teacher's cafeteria for 80 centamos a day.  Keep in mind, 80 centamos equals approximately $1.20 U.S.  Today's snacks included crab salad on sliced French bread, 2 variations of sweet croissant pastries, a cheesecake, a fruit basket, coffee and water.  Mind you, for 80 centamos, the teachers help themselves.  In Charo's words, "Vamos a gordar" (we are going to get fat).  Fortunately I am not getting fat though!  In fact, I have lost a fair amount of weight.  Of course some of it we have to attribute to the virus, but to my credit I walk all the time and climb many flights of stairs a day!  I wiggled out of a pair of shorts yesterday without unbuttoning them!  Woot.  

About Spain:  I remember for a long time looking back at my time in Salamanca and crediting it as the least stressful time of my life.  Between finding a piso and starting my new job with a raw intestinal track, I have endured a fair amount of stress since I moved.  But living here (and working only part-time), I feel the same relief that I felt five years ago.  We take a REAL break at school - not one where you scramble to make photocopies or write IEPs.  We walk in the most beautiful park 3-4 times a week - it's not a treadmill going nowhere.  I take a siesta in the afternoons.  I don't eat dinner till at least nine o'clock.  Though now that I actually do live here and am not just studying at the university for 2mos, I realize that all this relaxation compromises a lot of conveniences.  Banks close at 2:00pm.  Grocery stores are closed on Sundays.  There is NO WAL-MART.  In fact, good luck finding anything open 24 hours.  The stores that provide more convenience charge exponentially more for their products.  A sense of urgency is foreign to Spaniards.  My phone line still does not work, the trabajadores (workers) never returned to finish the plaster job on my wall, and I will probably wait indefinitely for my shower rod and detector de humo (smoke alarm) to be installed.  Every way of life has its pros and cons, and relaxation certainly has its hitches.    

domingo, 21 de septiembre

After adopting the Spanish lifestyle and going to bed at nearly 6:30am, I felt entitled to sleep in late and laze around the apartment despite the need to clean and do laundry.  Andrew left in the afternoon to return to Carmenchu's place north of Madrid.

At 7:15, I walked with Graeham; however, we lost our usual way to Retiro and found ourselves passing metro stations sprinkled across the map: Noviciado, Ruben Dario, Gregorio Maranon, and finally Iglesia.  We still relished the scenic route (see foto) that began on Recoleto; we took the metro home so that I could make dinner plans.  

Around 9ish, I took the metro and a short walk down Calle Huertas to eat with former Fulbrighter, Morgan Cronin.  Morgan worked at Manuel Nunez de Arenas last year as a Fulbright fellow and chose to continue as a conversation auxiliary sponsored by another program.  Morgan prepared an impressive dinner that began with salad followed by the main course, a roast chicken with carrots, onions, and potatoes.  We ate peaches for dessert.  We had an excellent conversation the whole evening; Morgan shared her scrapbook of travels, and we discussed venturing to Turkey together this year!

Mi Piso Limpiado y Decorado

Cumpleanos de Jim y Risa

sabado, 20 de septiembre: In the evening, Andrew and I met Jim, Risa, and a small group of friends in the Plaza Mayor.  We drank sangria and ate tapas in a medieval looking restaurant.  Claire and Stephanie bought a gourmet cake for the birthday pair!  After our tapas dinner, we returned to the Plaza to meet many more Fulbrighters.  Graeham and I encountered toilet paper art here and accordingly stood over the air vents posed as Marilyn Monroe.  When an impressive sized group amassed, we walked to La Latina where our botellon ensued.  Following the botellon, I went to my piso to hang out with Nick and Andrew.

jueves, 18 de sept. y viernes, 19 de sept.

jueves, 18 de septiembre:

Graeham and I see the Plaza Mayor and have drinks near La Latina.  We see a woman (possibly a prostitute) wearing a short, denim skirt and a top that bares her large and formidable midriff.  She appears dark in complexion yet has blond hair.  She has created some commotion and gained the attention of nearly everyone dining or walking in the street.  We're happy cause this means it's socially acceptable for us to stare too!  When in Rome...  I have a cana while Graeham drinks vino and eats jamon Iberico.  Later we hear an ambulance pull up to the corner and witness a rather pathetic group of slightly overweight, female EMTs "jog" a block to the scene.  As we note that they have parked rather far from said emergency, we see one of the women coming back (wearing one rubber glove mind you).  She drives the ambulance around the city block to the appropriate site.  Out of sheer morbid curiosity, Graeham and I elect to peer around the corner where low and behold, the aforementioned "prostitute" has created another spectacle.  We walk around the block to avoid the scene.

viernes, 19 de septiembre:

I run errands: Caja Madrid (to resolve the issue of my non-resident certifcate that has expired 2yrs prematurely), Banesto (but this branch won't cash my check), and Alcampo (for groceries).  A torrid afternoon inspires me to indulge in a refreshing Starbucks frappacino along my way.  It hits the spot!  Andrew has asked to stay with me tonight; he has yet to find a piso and wants to give his friend, Carmenchu, a break from his company.  Of course, I oblige.  Graeham and I walk in el Parque del Retiro and regret not bringing a camera when we see the sun set like a massive fried egg in the sky!  Not knowing I would have dinner guests, I had determined to cook calamari for the very first time.  When Andrew showed up earlier than I anticipated, I invited Graeham to stay as well - though I warned them, "Eat at your own risk."  We enjoyed the calamari alright, but the "tres sabores helado" (3 flavors ice cream) won hands down!  Possibly the Spanish neopolitan, it constituted French vanilla, chocolate, and cheesecake flavors!  Delicioso!  Por la noche (at night), we met friends in the Plaza Mayor but ended up partaking in un botellon (a group of young people drink and socialize in a public space) in Plaza de Chueca.  Andrew and I escorted Kristina home and called it a night.  

Gypsy Tears

A tangent story: miercoles, 3 de septiembre

Stepping off the train at the Alonso Martinez metro stop,  Mom notices that two Gypsies stand from their seats on a bench as we pass them.  They walk behind us.  We step onto the escalator: Dad leads; I am directly behind him; Mom stands one step below me.  Both Gypsy women agressively take the step between my Mom and I.  Realizing that they intend to pickpocket me, my Mom quickly moves aside and hurriedly tells me, "Sally, move out of the way.  I don't trust them."  I'm not sure what she just said, but I am certain that my Mom is now smooshing me by sharing this one step.  I turn around curiously.  My Mom repeats, "Sally, watch out.  Do not trust them."  To this I respond, "Fine, go up in front of Dad though: I have no room."  Aware now of the situation, I turn a second time to look at the Gypsies - and to my demise.  When I face forward, I hear a recognizable sound immediately followed by wetness on the back of my calves and knees.  

No folks, these were no Gypsy tears!  She actually SPAT on me, all over my legs!  But it doesn't end there...  

Reaching the top of the escalator, I hollered to my Dad to stop and let the women get ahead of us while my Mom (bless her) gave me a wet nap for my legs.  When we reached our connection, the Gypsies had already found a new bench from which to prowl again.  One woman put her hands to the side of her face, wiggling them and sticking her tongue out like a witch.  As the train doors closed, Dad gave his 2 cents with his middle finger - to which the other Gypsy emphatically reciprocated.

I give a special dedication to Kalli, Dave, and Niki, "Give me your tears, Gypsy!"  

La Noche en Blanco

Friday, I call Enrique to discover he is actually at my house, which makes me quite jealous.  See: April.  However, when he heads home, I am very excited to take part in a family video phone call via Skype!  I talk with Mom, Dad, April, Casey, Grandpa, and Dreena!  They even bring little Casey and Jonathan to the computer to say hello.

Saturday, I am feeling significantly better, and by this I mean I don't have to go to the bathroom every half-hour.  Nor do I have to puzzle my body's seemingly endless supply of waste.  Tonight Madrid celebrates the 3rd annual La Noche en Blanco (the night in white).  The city will open museums for free, and offer special concerts and performances.  Artists will utilize various buildings and structures as a medium for installation art.

Jess, with vino tinto (red wine) and chocolate in tote, joins Graeham and I for a late dinner of spinach pasta and chicken.  We dine on my patio and then meet Jim and his two friends, David (Madrileno) and Paul (de EEUU).  We wander through Madrid enamored by undulating masses in the streets.  We encounter various art installations - at times haphazardly and other times with a motive.  We practically scoff at the giant ruby, marvel at El Mar de Luz (the sea of lights), pause to enjoy a impromptu jazz concert, and relish the massive rubber ducks that swim in a magnificent fountain.  A bizarre spectacle: puckered lips projected in light float on the walls of a traditional and ornate building while puckering sounds resonate in the plaza.  The sounds range from over-sexualized to fart-like!  Jim grabs handfuls of free magnets, pens, and key rings from the Metro kiosk and shares the booty with us.  Graeham and I head to my piso (where she will stay with me till she can move into her own place) around 3am and discover two more installations, including the Telefonica building deformed with inflatable, noodle-like sculptural elements.  Que interesante!

      

Orientacion

I am glad to have checked into the residencia a night early; I have Kristina to thank for this.  She spoke to the woman at the desk for me.  I am SUPER ill at this point and very worried about starting orientation.

Despite fever and severe abdominal pain, I attend all sessions the first day, scouting a seat closest to the bathroom (to where I jet periodically).  I have barely eaten and though the tap water is safe to drink, it seems to make me sicker.  Thankfully, I have support from other Fulbrighters as well as Kristina's parents who will stay in Madrid till the fifteenth.  People check on me frequently, and Victor and Nury even bring me some Aquarius (like Gatorade).  Long story short: I keep getting worse and not better.  I miss the entire 2nd day of sessions, but finally go to the doctor (though I am turned away as a walk-in).  Patricia, coordinator of the Comision de Fulbright, tells me I have waited too long to seek treatment (Spaniards are more proactive about their health by comparison to U.S.).  She arranges for me to have a special diet from the cafeteria and even brings lunch to my room.  The doctor sees me at 5:30.  I have a virus; I'll have to endure.  Meanwhile, I have super potent anti-diarrheals and Ciproflaxin to prevent kidney infection.  Friday, I still cannot attend orientation events; I have consumed maybe 300 calories each day.